The month of February will see the end of my shack. I have declared it so.
I'm only making room for a new shack, so I'm not giving up the hobby, just the space until a new shack is built. Before the new shack is assembled, I have a couple of things I'd like to see come to fruition. First I'd like a mobile station again. Something VHF/UHF, HF is desired, but not necessary. I'd like to spend around $300 on the whole setup, from antenna, to feedline, to radio. I know that means getting used gear unless I go the cheap from China route. Having a ham radio hobby is great fun, but the most fun is when I can use it for public service. Having a mobile station is the first thing I can do to get me back to Ham Radio Volunteer, and not solely a casual hobby operator. Second, I need to work with my wife on getting a station set up internal to the house. I'd like something portable covering HF through UHF, with some attic antennas. It will take planning, work, and effort in cramped places, but it will be worth it because it will give me a place to operate when getting outside won't be feasible, if something happens to the shack, and because of "project" number 3.
Some of my kids seem to like electronics, and a couple occasionally express interest in ham radio. As I become more active as a volunteer, I want to fold them into that aspect of the hobby, both so that we can spend time together, and so that they can learn they have a role to play in society at large. My third project is to work with my kids, to make at least one more Ham. I think it will work because my girls are wicked smart, like electronics, and every now and again they ask me about radio.
We shall see.
three projects, one involving public service, one involving stealth operations (but that's not the point) and the third involving making more radio amateurs.
Anyone got a nice mobile rig that would be good for public service use in a vehicle?
Let's see how February goes!
I almost forgot to ask!
what would you experiment with first?
1. A short helically loaded antenna for 160m?
2. Dual band (40/20) portable trapped dipole?
Showing posts with label homebrew. Show all posts
Showing posts with label homebrew. Show all posts
Monday, February 4, 2019
Friday, September 8, 2017
That Last Minute Ham Radio Thing to Do...
...Before tropical storm force winds take down the antenna farm...
Yes, this is a Post about the W3EDP antenna.
In roughly 36 hours tropical storm force winds from Hurricane Irma will be affecting my area. I only have one HF antenna deployed right now, my W3EDP. I keep another one handy, just in case the first one gets damaged in the storm. If you find yourself wanting a quick antenna project to have ready to deploy "Just in Case", but find yourself working last minute, here's an idea.
1. Prep work: You'll need an antenna tuner with a "Balanced line" input. If you don't have one right now, you're not entirely hosed, just design your antenna carefully, use low power, and use the principle of tuning by maximum racket (The louder the static/noise you receive means your antenna is working more better). If you can cobble together a tank circuit to use to tune the antenna, all's the better!
2. Go to Radio Shack (if it exists in your area) , and buy a 100' roll of speaker wire. I prefer the 18 gauge stuff with clear insulation. Size doesn't matter at 100 watts or less, as long as you can create two legs by pulling the wire apart. It will also help if you can get some banana plugs, one red, one black (color not critical as long as you pay attention.) Also acquire some sort of string, fishing line, small rope, for deploying the antenna
3. Once home, take the speaker wire, and pull about 5" apart, tie an electricians knot. This is your input side to the tuner. The knot is not critical, but it can help keep the wire together. That might not be what you want to do, so after you build the antenna, you can untie the knot if you want.
4. From the point of the knot, measure 17' of speaker wire. The parallel strands of wire are usually marked, one side a solid color (or no color at all) and the other side has a stripe. Sometimes, this mark isn't done with color but with texture molded onto the insulation. The important thing is that you want to be able to tell one side from the other. Cut one strand of the speaker wire at 17'.
5. Continuing from the knot, measure 85' of speaker wire, and cut both sides. You now have one short leg, and one long leg with some extra wire attached. Pull the extra wire apart from the long leg of the antenna. Save it! Doing some math (85-17) You'll realize that you have about 68' of speaker wire now. After the crisis is over, you can play with that wire by building an End Fed Half Wave Antenna for 40m.
6. Improvise an end insulator for the long leg of the antenna. I prefer using buttons from old milsurp BDUs.
7. On the input side, strip the insulation off of both wires, about 2"-3" and attach the banana plugs (if you have them). Red on the long side, black on the short. If you don't have them, no worries, just remember that you want to attach the long side to the "Antenna" side of the tuner/transceiver, and the short side to the "Ground".
8. Deploy your antenna. I try to use at least two supports. How isn't important, just get it in the air, with as few bends and turns as possible!
9. Tune and enjoy. You may have better results pulling the short leg apart from the long.
One final warning:
DO NOT EXCEED 100 WATTS TRANSMITTED POWER WITH THIS ANTENNA WITHOUT UNDERSTANDING WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
There are some funky voltages generated by this antenna at certain loads, so please be mindful. I'd suggest staying off of 30m entirely until you can play. The antenna works really well on 40 and 20. It's decent on 15, and poor to outstanding on 10. For 80m you will need to detach the short leg (black plug) and work the antenna against the station ground. This technique may also get you better results on 10m, especially in the technician class voice portion of the band (28.300-28.500).
Yes, this is a Post about the W3EDP antenna.
In roughly 36 hours tropical storm force winds from Hurricane Irma will be affecting my area. I only have one HF antenna deployed right now, my W3EDP. I keep another one handy, just in case the first one gets damaged in the storm. If you find yourself wanting a quick antenna project to have ready to deploy "Just in Case", but find yourself working last minute, here's an idea.
1. Prep work: You'll need an antenna tuner with a "Balanced line" input. If you don't have one right now, you're not entirely hosed, just design your antenna carefully, use low power, and use the principle of tuning by maximum racket (The louder the static/noise you receive means your antenna is working more better). If you can cobble together a tank circuit to use to tune the antenna, all's the better!
2. Go to Radio Shack (if it exists in your area) , and buy a 100' roll of speaker wire. I prefer the 18 gauge stuff with clear insulation. Size doesn't matter at 100 watts or less, as long as you can create two legs by pulling the wire apart. It will also help if you can get some banana plugs, one red, one black (color not critical as long as you pay attention.) Also acquire some sort of string, fishing line, small rope, for deploying the antenna
3. Once home, take the speaker wire, and pull about 5" apart, tie an electricians knot. This is your input side to the tuner. The knot is not critical, but it can help keep the wire together. That might not be what you want to do, so after you build the antenna, you can untie the knot if you want.
4. From the point of the knot, measure 17' of speaker wire. The parallel strands of wire are usually marked, one side a solid color (or no color at all) and the other side has a stripe. Sometimes, this mark isn't done with color but with texture molded onto the insulation. The important thing is that you want to be able to tell one side from the other. Cut one strand of the speaker wire at 17'.
5. Continuing from the knot, measure 85' of speaker wire, and cut both sides. You now have one short leg, and one long leg with some extra wire attached. Pull the extra wire apart from the long leg of the antenna. Save it! Doing some math (85-17) You'll realize that you have about 68' of speaker wire now. After the crisis is over, you can play with that wire by building an End Fed Half Wave Antenna for 40m.
6. Improvise an end insulator for the long leg of the antenna. I prefer using buttons from old milsurp BDUs.
7. On the input side, strip the insulation off of both wires, about 2"-3" and attach the banana plugs (if you have them). Red on the long side, black on the short. If you don't have them, no worries, just remember that you want to attach the long side to the "Antenna" side of the tuner/transceiver, and the short side to the "Ground".
8. Deploy your antenna. I try to use at least two supports. How isn't important, just get it in the air, with as few bends and turns as possible!
9. Tune and enjoy. You may have better results pulling the short leg apart from the long.
One final warning:
DO NOT EXCEED 100 WATTS TRANSMITTED POWER WITH THIS ANTENNA WITHOUT UNDERSTANDING WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
There are some funky voltages generated by this antenna at certain loads, so please be mindful. I'd suggest staying off of 30m entirely until you can play. The antenna works really well on 40 and 20. It's decent on 15, and poor to outstanding on 10. For 80m you will need to detach the short leg (black plug) and work the antenna against the station ground. This technique may also get you better results on 10m, especially in the technician class voice portion of the band (28.300-28.500).
Monday, October 24, 2016
Winter Build Project
The following message was received tonight via undisclosed methods:
Seeing as how the glowbug I'm currently using is a tad off frequency, I believe this would be a great second attempt. Beats trying to refreq my rockmite! I'm mostly sure I've got enough parts to get by...
If not, I'll find a TV set somewhere and apply some "Victory Against Ignorance".
Other thing to do this winter:
Get a better Antenna up for 80m!
Craziest idea I've pondered to do this: a vertical loop for 80m where the bottom is 10' off the ground.
I've got the speakerwire, do I have the real estate?
CBLA Field Agent Radio
This communique will serve as Official Notice that the Color-Burst Liberation Army has adopted the KD1JV MAS-80 CW transceiver for use by our Field Agents. In the spirit of those who've gone before us, the CB/MAS-3579 is the solid-state equivalent of the vaunted PARASET field radio used by Allied agents in Europe during WWII. Like the PARASET, the MAS uses a crystal-controlled transmitter and a regenerative receiver. Just like the agents who operated the PARASET, CBLA Field Agents will be required to assemble their own radios.
Construction details can be found here:
<http://kd1jv.qrpradio.com/MAS/MAS.htm>
The CB/MAS-3579 is powered by 13.8 Volts and transmitter output power is 2 Watts however simple modifications can raise that to 3 Watts.
Carry on,
Generalisimo Stephen Smith
CBLA #1
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ ------------------------------ -----------------------------
End Transmittal
Seeing as how the glowbug I'm currently using is a tad off frequency, I believe this would be a great second attempt. Beats trying to refreq my rockmite! I'm mostly sure I've got enough parts to get by...
If not, I'll find a TV set somewhere and apply some "Victory Against Ignorance".
Other thing to do this winter:
Get a better Antenna up for 80m!
Craziest idea I've pondered to do this: a vertical loop for 80m where the bottom is 10' off the ground.
I've got the speakerwire, do I have the real estate?
Saturday, May 7, 2016
W3EDP Over Time
It's the antenna I keep in the back of my car because I never want to be caught without an antenna.
It's the antenna that keeps people coming to my blog. The original post I did about the antenna has more views than any other post on my blog so far.
It's the antenna I've sold before because I believe in it that much, and as of right now, it's the antenna that I make the most QSOs with at the QTH.
It's the W3EDP.
While not the best solution in every situation, it's a solution in almost every situation. Here's some examples of how versatile it is:
1. I've used it QRP, and QRPp
2. I've used it with up to 100 watts.
3. I've taken it into the field
4. I've used it in a semi-permanent deployment at the house.
Only thing I haven't run, is one up a kite, and I've got plans on doing that one day.
I have a shack logbook (Don't you?), and while not every quibble I do in my shack gets recorded into the logbook, one thing that I always try to do is record the tuner settings for the W3EDP currently deployed in the backyard. The W3EDP remains true to its tuning, generally, if I write a value down, I can switch bands and come to that setting later.
Doesn't work all the time, but it works often enough. Take the time to notice that where you are in the band affects the tuner settings, but not overly drastically. For instance, on the date of 31 October, 2015, the setting for 3.930 was "5/6 H 3/4" That means between 5 and 6, closer to 6, H, between 3 and 4, closer to 4, but only slightly. On 11 November 2015, I went to the bottom of the band, 3.505, and the settings were similar, 5/6 H 2/3. I expected this change. Sometimes I experiment with different settings on purpose, hoping to get a better signal. You see this especially on my settings for 20m. On 30 October, I had the tuner set to /6 B /4. That indicates "Touching the left edge of 6, B, touching the left edge of 4". Typically, when using the W3EDP, this is the go to setting for most of 20m, but sometimes the tuning can be touchy. I experimented with the vertical antenna I have for 20/15m. I wanted to find a tuner setting that was close for both, and was pleased with the results (See settings for dates 16 Dec 2015).
The W3EDP currently deployed in the backyard is built of bare "silky wire." It seems to weather well in Florida weather, and I can detect no adverse performance characteristics, despite some apparent corrosion.
I've also built it using Radio Shack outdoor grade speaker wire, bare #14 antenna wire (wireman #511), and Flexweave. I'm torn on whether I like Flexweave or Silky better. I will say that using #14 antenna wire seems to be the best if you are going to use it in a permanent setting, as long as you won't have it touching trees, buildings, etc. One change I might make to the setup I'm running now is to the tuner.
I think I want to create a dedicated tuner, but I need to do some analysis on the antenna, maybe model it out on different frequencies, sweep through the bands. I've learned some interesting things about modeling while planning an antenna that performs well on bands that don't do well with the W3EDP. That means I'll have to change my model, but because I've learned something, I don't mind so much.
Anyway,
That's how things are going currently with my W3EDP. I haven't made many QSOs yet in 2016, but I do promise some more interesting antenna posts soon in the future! I'm working on building an antenna to work around the pesky tuning problems I seem to have with the W3EDP on the WARC bands, notably on 30m and 17m.
73 es HV FN,
GB Hoyt
It's the antenna that keeps people coming to my blog. The original post I did about the antenna has more views than any other post on my blog so far.
It's the antenna I've sold before because I believe in it that much, and as of right now, it's the antenna that I make the most QSOs with at the QTH.
It's the W3EDP.
While not the best solution in every situation, it's a solution in almost every situation. Here's some examples of how versatile it is:
1. I've used it QRP, and QRPp
2. I've used it with up to 100 watts.
3. I've taken it into the field
4. I've used it in a semi-permanent deployment at the house.
Only thing I haven't run, is one up a kite, and I've got plans on doing that one day.
I have a shack logbook (Don't you?), and while not every quibble I do in my shack gets recorded into the logbook, one thing that I always try to do is record the tuner settings for the W3EDP currently deployed in the backyard. The W3EDP remains true to its tuning, generally, if I write a value down, I can switch bands and come to that setting later.
 |
| Settings. |
 |
| "Silky Wire" |
 |
| Corrosion on the end is intermittent along whole wire. |
The W3EDP currently deployed in the backyard is built of bare "silky wire." It seems to weather well in Florida weather, and I can detect no adverse performance characteristics, despite some apparent corrosion.
I've also built it using Radio Shack outdoor grade speaker wire, bare #14 antenna wire (wireman #511), and Flexweave. I'm torn on whether I like Flexweave or Silky better. I will say that using #14 antenna wire seems to be the best if you are going to use it in a permanent setting, as long as you won't have it touching trees, buildings, etc. One change I might make to the setup I'm running now is to the tuner.
I think I want to create a dedicated tuner, but I need to do some analysis on the antenna, maybe model it out on different frequencies, sweep through the bands. I've learned some interesting things about modeling while planning an antenna that performs well on bands that don't do well with the W3EDP. That means I'll have to change my model, but because I've learned something, I don't mind so much.
Anyway,
That's how things are going currently with my W3EDP. I haven't made many QSOs yet in 2016, but I do promise some more interesting antenna posts soon in the future! I'm working on building an antenna to work around the pesky tuning problems I seem to have with the W3EDP on the WARC bands, notably on 30m and 17m.
73 es HV FN,
GB Hoyt
Saturday, April 23, 2016
KG4GVL Skeleton Sleeve Pt 1
In my quest for finding an antenna that gives me two bands without a tuner, one of the most interesting candidates so far is the "Skeleton Sleeve Dipole" featured in the Appendix of Small Antennas for Small Spaces.
This antenna fascinates me because it's one of the physically simplest multiband antennas I've seen. I know an EARCHI type endfed could be called "simplier", I also think they could be called "lossier" too. I've built a couple Half-wave end fed antennas, and while they are impressive, I am not really sure about how good they are. the SSD has no tuner, no traps, no matching section. When deployed to the proper height, they can exhibit gain when compared to a dipole of similar height, especially on the higher frequency band.
I wanted to build an antenna that was easy to operate on bands that it's hard for my W3EDP to tune, namely 30m and 17m. Especially 30m. With the the solar minimum upon us, and the potential for a larger Maunder minimum type event, I figured it would be wise to have something dedicated to 30, that may be the best daytime DX band.
I started, by taking a spreadsheet and calculating the length of the antenna depicted in the book as a percent of a standard dipole in feet ie: L/(486/f) * 100%. L = total length of the folded skeleton sleeve in feet, f = Frequency in MHz.
After that, I calculated the similar percent needed for 30m and 17m, and soon discovered that if I was going to keep what I thought was similar spacing and construction as the original, 17m would not fit! I decided to go with 30m and 15m instead, figuring it would be a better fit. I came up with the model mentioned in a previous blog post. It didn't take me long to figure out that the model didn't quite work the way I expected it to work. I had some questions about why that could be, so started out by fiddling with the lengths of the antenna, and even putting it in freespace. Eventually, I emailed the expert, W1ZR, the original designer of the antenna. He sent me some wonderful information and tips about modelling these types of antennas I want to share.
First off, here's what a generic image of the design looks like:
This antenna fascinates me because it's one of the physically simplest multiband antennas I've seen. I know an EARCHI type endfed could be called "simplier", I also think they could be called "lossier" too. I've built a couple Half-wave end fed antennas, and while they are impressive, I am not really sure about how good they are. the SSD has no tuner, no traps, no matching section. When deployed to the proper height, they can exhibit gain when compared to a dipole of similar height, especially on the higher frequency band.
I wanted to build an antenna that was easy to operate on bands that it's hard for my W3EDP to tune, namely 30m and 17m. Especially 30m. With the the solar minimum upon us, and the potential for a larger Maunder minimum type event, I figured it would be wise to have something dedicated to 30, that may be the best daytime DX band.
 |
| The Original 40m/20m Folded skeleton Sleeve Antenna Courtesy W1ZR |
I started, by taking a spreadsheet and calculating the length of the antenna depicted in the book as a percent of a standard dipole in feet ie: L/(486/f) * 100%. L = total length of the folded skeleton sleeve in feet, f = Frequency in MHz.
After that, I calculated the similar percent needed for 30m and 17m, and soon discovered that if I was going to keep what I thought was similar spacing and construction as the original, 17m would not fit! I decided to go with 30m and 15m instead, figuring it would be a better fit. I came up with the model mentioned in a previous blog post. It didn't take me long to figure out that the model didn't quite work the way I expected it to work. I had some questions about why that could be, so started out by fiddling with the lengths of the antenna, and even putting it in freespace. Eventually, I emailed the expert, W1ZR, the original designer of the antenna. He sent me some wonderful information and tips about modelling these types of antennas I want to share.
First off, here's what a generic image of the design looks like:
I plan on building the top style. The bottom one has some potential, too, but the top style is the one I want to build because it's over all length is shorter than a traditional dipole.
 |
| The particular dimensions I'm after |
Above is some of the excellent information W1ZR sent me. Notice the dimensions for most band combinations. I asked him if he used any formulas to come up with the numbers, and he said no. He created the model with trial and error, and then built it out to see if real life fit the model. That's dedication the ham radio way! I circled the information for the 30/17 model so you can get a rough idea of the dimensions. I got all this information last fall, and over the winter I began building the antenna with the idea that I would have it up in time to catch some winter QSOs and Spring E-Skip on 17. Turns out, I busted my timetable all up by going back to school!
To be continued...
Sunday, November 8, 2015
Late Night Antenna Math
It's late, and I'm doing math, there ought to be a law :-)
I'm doing this partially because I want to know if I'll be able to study after work in the spring. How does my mind handle math in the wee hours of the night?
I'm not real sure, but I've been having some fun modeling some antennas!
Sometimes it helps me to see what the antenna looks like, then I can write down some numbers, and enter them into XNEC2C.
Main thing I've learned tonight is that you need to make sure you are running your wires the right way when you fiddle with their lengths!
I've included a github gist for this antenna below.
***EDIT*** It should be noted that units in the file above are in Meters, not feet. Also: I think there's a way to go from XNEC2C to EZNEC, if you know something about the NEC Cards. I don't understand the process though.
I'm doing this partially because I want to know if I'll be able to study after work in the spring. How does my mind handle math in the wee hours of the night?
I'm not real sure, but I've been having some fun modeling some antennas!
Sometimes it helps me to see what the antenna looks like, then I can write down some numbers, and enter them into XNEC2C.
Main thing I've learned tonight is that you need to make sure you are running your wires the right way when you fiddle with their lengths!
I've included a github gist for this antenna below.
***EDIT*** It should be noted that units in the file above are in Meters, not feet. Also: I think there's a way to go from XNEC2C to EZNEC, if you know something about the NEC Cards. I don't understand the process though.
Thursday, December 11, 2014
Finding Obsolete Parts: Furthering This Idea of a STHR
In a recent Post, I put forward the idea of a Strategic Thru-Hole Reserve of parts commonly found in kits made in the mid 90s to today. There's been some good feedback about this, so the next step is to discuss what comes next. I envision a website where people go to share what they have and what they need. Let's say I need a 2SC2166. I should be able to search for the part, select a person with the part, and contact that person to make some sort of arrangement to acquire the part.
Sound about right?
Sound about right?
Sunday, December 7, 2014
CQ CBLA: OPERATION REBEL ROCK
****FLASH TRAFFIC****
Our brothers in the AWA are undertaking a noble effort right now in the realm of retro-innovation.
They are currently using homebrew amateur radio gear patterned after homebrew circuits of the 1920s and 1930s in their "2014 Bruce Kelley 1929 QSO Party and W2ICE Special Event Station"
Link is here:
http://www.antiquewireless.org/awa-on-the-air.html
We're not worth any points for these guys, but I'm calling on all CBLA members to attempt contacts with these stations during the last two hours of the contest. Several CBLA members are participating and have expressed their willingness to QSY to 3579 KC for this event.
Our mission parameters:
1. Contact 1 (or more) AWA 1929 QSO Party stations on 3579.
2. Submit a log mentioning the CBLA.
3. QSO with other CBLA stations immediately after the QSO Party.
#003 out, happy hunting!
****END FLASH TRAFFIC****
Our brothers in the AWA are undertaking a noble effort right now in the realm of retro-innovation.
They are currently using homebrew amateur radio gear patterned after homebrew circuits of the 1920s and 1930s in their "2014 Bruce Kelley 1929 QSO Party and W2ICE Special Event Station"
Link is here:
http://www.antiquewireless.org/awa-on-the-air.html
We're not worth any points for these guys, but I'm calling on all CBLA members to attempt contacts with these stations during the last two hours of the contest. Several CBLA members are participating and have expressed their willingness to QSY to 3579 KC for this event.
Our mission parameters:
1. Contact 1 (or more) AWA 1929 QSO Party stations on 3579.
2. Submit a log mentioning the CBLA.
3. QSO with other CBLA stations immediately after the QSO Party.
#003 out, happy hunting!
****END FLASH TRAFFIC****
Saturday, December 6, 2014
The Strategic Thru-Hole Part Reserve
On twitter the other day, @imabug lamented the demise of a favored component
The ensuing discussion was great, and I began thinking about the last tweet I made in it:
I made it as an offhand glib remark, and reference to the strategic petroleum reserve created during the 70s, but there was also a little "Ha-ha only serious" going on too. It would be nice to have such a thing. It won't be long before @imabug needs that J310 and the box is dry, what if we had that reserve.
I think of it as a sort of social network with two lists, one of stuff you have available, one of stuff you need. The list of stuff you have available you don't use in projects, just store well. Trade as you need to on your own terms.
The ensuing discussion was great, and I began thinking about the last tweet I made in it:
I think of it as a sort of social network with two lists, one of stuff you have available, one of stuff you need. The list of stuff you have available you don't use in projects, just store well. Trade as you need to on your own terms.
Hand Full of Parts 2.
Thursday, G asked me about building her radio as soon as I was up and drinking coffee.
"Wouldn't you rather run some errands with me instead?" I asked. I didn't want to push radio on her.
"Ok!" She just wanted to hang out. That's cool by me too.
After we returned, she wanted to play out back again, and she did so, my wife and I could hear her singing outside. I stepped outside to keep an eye on her more better. As I crossed the threshold of the door the question came again:
"Daddy, can we build my radio some more?"
"Are you sure?" I asked.
"Uh huh!" she said, blonde hair bouncing as she ran to the shack.
We sat down and she informed me that she wanted to keep testing the capacitors while I stuffed holes and soldered. I laughed, and said "OK"
Things went well, and I invited her over to clip a lead or too. She liked that, I figured she would, since she loves cutting her own hair, why not give the radio a cut too!
The fun lasted about 20 minutes, and then G decided to practice casting with her Barbie fishing pole, so that's what we did next.
This radio has less than 20 parts, and it's already taken me longer than the SMK-1.
Something seems a bit more fun about it though.
"Wouldn't you rather run some errands with me instead?" I asked. I didn't want to push radio on her.
"Ok!" She just wanted to hang out. That's cool by me too.
After we returned, she wanted to play out back again, and she did so, my wife and I could hear her singing outside. I stepped outside to keep an eye on her more better. As I crossed the threshold of the door the question came again:
"Daddy, can we build my radio some more?"
"Are you sure?" I asked.
"Uh huh!" she said, blonde hair bouncing as she ran to the shack.
We sat down and she informed me that she wanted to keep testing the capacitors while I stuffed holes and soldered. I laughed, and said "OK"
Things went well, and I invited her over to clip a lead or too. She liked that, I figured she would, since she loves cutting her own hair, why not give the radio a cut too!
The fun lasted about 20 minutes, and then G decided to practice casting with her Barbie fishing pole, so that's what we did next.
This radio has less than 20 parts, and it's already taken me longer than the SMK-1.
Something seems a bit more fun about it though.
Thursday, December 4, 2014
Hand Full of Parts...
One of the ideas I'd been toying with doing for the "Great American Teach In" involved breadboard building a regen live. I found a circuit in W1FB's design notebook, and began assembling the parts for it. I asked my daughter's teacher when the teach-in would be held, and she indicated that the new principal rescheduled it in the spring. I shelved the parts, thinking I would wait until winter to test the circuit out, I didn't want to rush.
The parts sat on my workbench tucked into a corner, out of the way, but not completely out of sight or out of mind. I prewound the tank circuit on a pillbottle, and put the handfull of parts the radio needs inside it. All except a pot, and a couple of caps. I'm still debating what to do about the tuning cap. The circuit calls for a 100pf variable cap, and I have some orange trimmers that would work (max 70pf), if I left it on a quasi-fixed frequency, perhaps in the neighborhood of 3579 KHZ (wink wink). On Sunday, my five year old (call her G.) needed to play outside, and I decided to go out, and monitor her from my shack, perhaps snagging a QSO or two on one of the high bands. Here's what I saw when I walked into the shack:
I needed to tidy up a bit.
I did some tidying up and now my shack looks a lot better. Still needs work, but progress is progress. One of the things that popped up front was the little regen kit...
My big girls have shown some interest in what their Dad does in the weird looking, funny smelling shed in the back yard, and they frequently ask me for a "radio project". Usually, what that means is taking one of my old junker radios, and tapping various parts with screwdrivers. I'm cool with that most of the time, keeps them busy, and maybe one day this seed will grow into a desire to learn radio. The five year old has been showing interest too, and she popped in the shack while I was cleaning up.
"Can I have a radio?" she asks, normally, she gets the little Vectronics 80m Direct Conversion radio kit I got when I was single, lived in Atlanta, and wanted something to accompany my NoGANaut. The last time she "Fixed" it, she destroyed several components on the board that I would have liked to junk off of it.
"Baby girl, last time, you broke parts I can't fix."
"But I'm five now, and I'm not a baby, I want to build my own!"
I can argue with cute, and I can argue with logic, but when you combine cute and logic, what can I really do?
"Ok, come check this out,"
I took out the kit, showed her the parts, and we looked at the schematic:
We began looking around for any of the parts that were missing in the kit. I'm still looking for a 1k pot, we found a 500 ohm pot, and I might try that, and if it doesn't work, we'll make something up as we go along.
Soon we had to get back inside and get our supper. Every day since then she's asked about "putting together her radio". Yesterday we started populating a board with some of the parts. We haven't 100% settled on a final box for this, probably do an altoids tin, because I've got about a million of them.
We had to find some caps:
An ever elusive component, the 100pf NP0 capacitor foils every effort I make at homebrewing. I set G to searching them out from a jumble of leads and discs that comprised a baggie of "assorted capacitors" from RadioShack. There were NO 100pf caps in the whole thing. Fortunately, my SK Elmer, W3IRZ taught me that 3 33pf caps in parallel work very well for a 100pf cap.
When the task of sorting the caps got to a stopping point, G wanted to play with the DVM, she learned that a cap is "good" if the 1 shows up on the ohmmeter. She also learned about potentiometers, and how turning the knob makes them change value. After stuffing the board with a few resistors, the 2N4416, and the LM386, we called it a day.
She's already asked me about her radio once this morning, maybe we'll make time to learn about soldering!
The parts sat on my workbench tucked into a corner, out of the way, but not completely out of sight or out of mind. I prewound the tank circuit on a pillbottle, and put the handfull of parts the radio needs inside it. All except a pot, and a couple of caps. I'm still debating what to do about the tuning cap. The circuit calls for a 100pf variable cap, and I have some orange trimmers that would work (max 70pf), if I left it on a quasi-fixed frequency, perhaps in the neighborhood of 3579 KHZ (wink wink). On Sunday, my five year old (call her G.) needed to play outside, and I decided to go out, and monitor her from my shack, perhaps snagging a QSO or two on one of the high bands. Here's what I saw when I walked into the shack:
 | |
| had to take this in sideways |
I needed to tidy up a bit.
I did some tidying up and now my shack looks a lot better. Still needs work, but progress is progress. One of the things that popped up front was the little regen kit...
My big girls have shown some interest in what their Dad does in the weird looking, funny smelling shed in the back yard, and they frequently ask me for a "radio project". Usually, what that means is taking one of my old junker radios, and tapping various parts with screwdrivers. I'm cool with that most of the time, keeps them busy, and maybe one day this seed will grow into a desire to learn radio. The five year old has been showing interest too, and she popped in the shack while I was cleaning up.
"Can I have a radio?" she asks, normally, she gets the little Vectronics 80m Direct Conversion radio kit I got when I was single, lived in Atlanta, and wanted something to accompany my NoGANaut. The last time she "Fixed" it, she destroyed several components on the board that I would have liked to junk off of it.
"Baby girl, last time, you broke parts I can't fix."
"But I'm five now, and I'm not a baby, I want to build my own!"
I can argue with cute, and I can argue with logic, but when you combine cute and logic, what can I really do?
"Ok, come check this out,"
I took out the kit, showed her the parts, and we looked at the schematic:
We began looking around for any of the parts that were missing in the kit. I'm still looking for a 1k pot, we found a 500 ohm pot, and I might try that, and if it doesn't work, we'll make something up as we go along.
Soon we had to get back inside and get our supper. Every day since then she's asked about "putting together her radio". Yesterday we started populating a board with some of the parts. We haven't 100% settled on a final box for this, probably do an altoids tin, because I've got about a million of them.
We had to find some caps:
 | |
| Searching for Unobtanium |
An ever elusive component, the 100pf NP0 capacitor foils every effort I make at homebrewing. I set G to searching them out from a jumble of leads and discs that comprised a baggie of "assorted capacitors" from RadioShack. There were NO 100pf caps in the whole thing. Fortunately, my SK Elmer, W3IRZ taught me that 3 33pf caps in parallel work very well for a 100pf cap.
 |
| learning by doing |
She's already asked me about her radio once this morning, maybe we'll make time to learn about soldering!
Wednesday, November 26, 2014
Lite Em UP! Setting up for a Totally Tubular Winter Ham Radio Experimentation
I'm building a single tube MOPA. Yes, the same one I seem to almost build every year. :-)
This year, however, I have a plan! When you have a plan, you can win!
Sometimes.
The tube is a 10DE7, a higher heater voltage tube version of the 6DE7.
The circuit is a Crystal controlled Colpitts Oscillator. The only reason I'm doing this as a Xtal Colpitts is because I want my first foray into the world of tube design to be easy. I've built somebody else's tube Colpitts (The NoGA Twin Tube 80), so I figure that this will be a matter of scaling the design to the tube. Next I'll try a PTO Hartley. I've got the brass screw and nylon tube to wind a coil on for that!
I will handle this project in three phases:
1. design power supply. This tube has an interesting heater voltage requirement, so I have to solve that lil problem first. Also, need something that will give me around 300vdc for B+. I'm thinking voltage doubling circuit at first, just to see if I can do it. I'd use the same back to back radioshack 12.3v transformers to isolate the AC and then double the result. that should get me around 330v. I can drop voltage with a resistor if necessary. I want to QRV, not optimize right now.
2. Design the Oscillator and make it oscillate. I want to design the circuit in such a fashion that the compenents are accesable, but not dangerous. I'll socket the crystal somehow, and make sure all B+ voltages stay tucked away, shielded from wandering and little fingers. I want the board layout to be identical to the schematic layout, so I can understand how things are working, and I can tinker with values at will.
3. Design and build the final stage, including a way to remotely switch between receive and transmit. If I've done my calculating correctly, I should be able to get 3-4 watts out. High hopes? Yes. But we will do it as we are able.
Once QRV with this radio, I'll work on a receiver, probably something DC, and involving that Hartley oscillator. It will glow in the dark too, and will be used primarily with this transmitter.
Like I said, that's the plan!
This year, however, I have a plan! When you have a plan, you can win!
Sometimes.
The tube is a 10DE7, a higher heater voltage tube version of the 6DE7.
The circuit is a Crystal controlled Colpitts Oscillator. The only reason I'm doing this as a Xtal Colpitts is because I want my first foray into the world of tube design to be easy. I've built somebody else's tube Colpitts (The NoGA Twin Tube 80), so I figure that this will be a matter of scaling the design to the tube. Next I'll try a PTO Hartley. I've got the brass screw and nylon tube to wind a coil on for that!
I will handle this project in three phases:
1. design power supply. This tube has an interesting heater voltage requirement, so I have to solve that lil problem first. Also, need something that will give me around 300vdc for B+. I'm thinking voltage doubling circuit at first, just to see if I can do it. I'd use the same back to back radioshack 12.3v transformers to isolate the AC and then double the result. that should get me around 330v. I can drop voltage with a resistor if necessary. I want to QRV, not optimize right now.
2. Design the Oscillator and make it oscillate. I want to design the circuit in such a fashion that the compenents are accesable, but not dangerous. I'll socket the crystal somehow, and make sure all B+ voltages stay tucked away, shielded from wandering and little fingers. I want the board layout to be identical to the schematic layout, so I can understand how things are working, and I can tinker with values at will.
3. Design and build the final stage, including a way to remotely switch between receive and transmit. If I've done my calculating correctly, I should be able to get 3-4 watts out. High hopes? Yes. But we will do it as we are able.
Once QRV with this radio, I'll work on a receiver, probably something DC, and involving that Hartley oscillator. It will glow in the dark too, and will be used primarily with this transmitter.
Like I said, that's the plan!
Monday, November 11, 2013
More Fun with Iron Donuts Part 3: Bigger is Better?
Is bigger better?
When talking about icecream and chocolate bars, I'm going with yes!
When talking camping gear and portable radio options, I'm thinking no...
I do own 2 QRO radios, only one of which works, the Swan 100-MX.
Because I seem to be digging this EFHW design, I decided to up the ante
so to speak, and try my hand at making a setup that was a little more
robust, capable of handling 100+ watts. When it comes to Transformers,
that means bigger wire and bigger cores. The largest wire I have on hand
is 22 gauge, which is big enough to handle 100w, if the match is good,
and there's not a lot of core heating. At least I think it is, that's
why we give things the ol' trial by fire so to speak. My thoughts were, get it right at QRP levels, and then go QRO.
I wound up the same transformer as The Micro-Matcher, only bigger. it has a 1:9 turns ratio, and is wound on an FT113-43 core. Poking around in the junque baggie of NP0 caps, I found another 150pf cap.
After wiring up the toroid, I hooked up the half wave 20m wire, and got portable. Well, battery powered at least:
OP ready to go, Rig is SW-20+ rated at around 1 watt on battery output.
Since the match looked pretty good, I figured I would go ahead and call CQ a few times to see if I could quickly scare up a QSO. No luck then, but I checked the RBN and there I was!
Notice the one entry from Nov 2?
I moved the rig back inside, and hooked up to the bench power supply to give me that little extra bit of RF. Life intervened and I had to wait until my wife got home before really testing out the setup from inside the shack. Tuning around 20m I came across a CQ that lead to a QSO. Noticing a hike in the SWR when going through my tuner (even in Bypass mode), I began to suspect either a problem in the tuner or in the antenna switch. I looked out the window, and discovered my problem. I was a little pressed for time (had to get ready for work) so I apologize for the brevity:
Funniest thing about it was that the SWR was still less than 2:1.
Testing at QRO levels is still ongoing. Things are promising, especially on 20m so far, but the jury is still out, and I need to buy some connectors, coax and PVC to check some things out.
73,
GB Hoyt
KG4GVL
When talking about icecream and chocolate bars, I'm going with yes!
When talking camping gear and portable radio options, I'm thinking no...
 | |||
| Big Happy Iron Donut |
I wound up the same transformer as The Micro-Matcher, only bigger. it has a 1:9 turns ratio, and is wound on an FT113-43 core. Poking around in the junque baggie of NP0 caps, I found another 150pf cap.
After wiring up the toroid, I hooked up the half wave 20m wire, and got portable. Well, battery powered at least:
OP ready to go, Rig is SW-20+ rated at around 1 watt on battery output.
 |
| We have a match! |
Since the match looked pretty good, I figured I would go ahead and call CQ a few times to see if I could quickly scare up a QSO. No luck then, but I checked the RBN and there I was!
Notice the one entry from Nov 2?
I moved the rig back inside, and hooked up to the bench power supply to give me that little extra bit of RF. Life intervened and I had to wait until my wife got home before really testing out the setup from inside the shack. Tuning around 20m I came across a CQ that lead to a QSO. Noticing a hike in the SWR when going through my tuner (even in Bypass mode), I began to suspect either a problem in the tuner or in the antenna switch. I looked out the window, and discovered my problem. I was a little pressed for time (had to get ready for work) so I apologize for the brevity:
Testing at QRO levels is still ongoing. Things are promising, especially on 20m so far, but the jury is still out, and I need to buy some connectors, coax and PVC to check some things out.
73,
GB Hoyt
KG4GVL
Tuesday, October 15, 2013
Sometimes it Pays to Check the Power Output!
The QRPARCI Fall QSO Party took place second weekend in October. I took an oppurtunity to participate in it albeit in a limited fashion. Mainly I wanted to test deploy my End Fed Half Wave antenna, and have some fun slingin' some dits and dahs.
Saturdays I work a monster 12 hour shift beginning at noon. After I got done doing some UI testing, and before the next batch of jobs I have to monitor began, I decided to take a half hour lunch break to feed my brain using ham radio, specifically the QSO Party. I sprinted out to "El Toro" (our red Mazda Tribute) after clocking out for lunch, and got to my station. This is the third time I've deployed in the parking lot using a wire antenna like this, and it was the first time I've used the EFHW to make a QSO from the parking lot. I made exactly one QSO, with NM4T on 20m. The EFHW did well over all, lots of signals, some were VERY loud, especially the SKCC WES stations near the QRP watering hole. I did make a couple of mistakes though.
1. I assumed I had everything I needed in my box. when I got out there, I realized I didn't have the connector for my 7AH gel cell battery. I did have the end that plugged into the radio, but not the end that plugged into the battery.
2. I could have used a second roll of fishing line. The EFHW works well on 20m with 33' or 66' of line deployed. I used 33' because I didn't have a way of stretching the second 33' section out, and time was too short to attempt a redeploy of the antenna. I didn't want to cut the line because I felt that would have been a waste of string.
3. I intentionally left my NoGAwatt at home, and I missed it. I like having the reassurance that my forward power is good to go. I would have checked, and then removed it from the line. I've discovered that it does add some non-trivial at QRP levels loss in the line, so I left it home.
Sunday I try to limit my "on the air" time in favor for some "play with the kids time" but I did take a little time to play radio at my in-laws from their driveway. We went over there to eat hamburgers, and the kids were playing as the sun was setting. This time I deployed on 40m, and confirmed my issue number 2: when setting up an EFHW on 40m as an inverted vee (It kinda looks more like a caret (^)to me) It helps to have two separate lines, one to support the middle, and one to support the far end. I keep a piece of paracord handy in the box to tie down the end where the RF goes.
This time instead of using 20m I decided to go with 40, using "The Killer Watt Radio." It's supposed to be calibrated to transmit at one watt with the little 8 cell AA battery pack I use. That's with a fresh battery pack. I did take a better picture of my setup, but right when I snapped the pictured, my phone's battery died and it was lost :(. I did managed to get two QSO's on 40 before the skeeters got bad, and about carried me off. The first QSO was with WB4MNK, he was so loud, I had to turn the gain down to be able to hear anyone but him when tuning to people calling on nearby frequencies.
The second QSO was with N0WL. I had hoped that I could stay around and work him during the 4SQRP SS after the ARCI Party, but I could not stand the skeeters.
Monday morning I decided to check out my power levels and I discovered something interesting. The open circuit voltage on the battery pack was down to about 11.7 volts, and I was transmitting about .689 watts on both radios! This makes my Fall QSO party power multiplier a 10. Heh! that's one way to boost your score.
Here's what I learned:
66' of wire can be tough to quickly deploy without two support lines. I could have gone for a single support on the far end as High as I can get it, but I think I get some benefit from having the high current portion of the antenna (on 40m at least) at the apex. Might be worth modeling, if I can ever get a computer that will successfully run software.
73,
GB Hoyt
KG4GVL
 |
| 20m Portable Operation, QRPARCI Fall QSO Party |
 | |
| Best Pic I have of my Sunday Night Setup |
The second QSO was with N0WL. I had hoped that I could stay around and work him during the 4SQRP SS after the ARCI Party, but I could not stand the skeeters.
Monday morning I decided to check out my power levels and I discovered something interesting. The open circuit voltage on the battery pack was down to about 11.7 volts, and I was transmitting about .689 watts on both radios! This makes my Fall QSO party power multiplier a 10. Heh! that's one way to boost your score.
Here's what I learned:
66' of wire can be tough to quickly deploy without two support lines. I could have gone for a single support on the far end as High as I can get it, but I think I get some benefit from having the high current portion of the antenna (on 40m at least) at the apex. Might be worth modeling, if I can ever get a computer that will successfully run software.
- Check and double check your kit, and make sure you have power redundancy. That saved my bacon both days, because I forgot the part that hooks up to my battery the first night, and then I forgot the part that hooks up to the radio the second night!
- If you think you'll use it, bring it. I didn't technically "Need" my NoGAWatt, but I missed having it.
- Bugspray is your friend, but having a layered strategy is better. Wish I had long sleeves, bugspray, and some sort of "area skeeter control" gadget with me instead of just bugspray. Them things are meaner now than when I was a kid!
73,
GB Hoyt
KG4GVL
Monday, October 14, 2013
First, You Gotta Build the Stuff to Use to Test the Stuff You Build
I'm in the process of designing and building my own MOPA using a 10DE7 vacuum tube. I want to use one tube for both the Master Oscillator and Power Amplifier. It's been a great learning experience so far, I go to sleep every night with Colpitts Oscillators dancing in my head. One of the tools I've used when building a radio has been a Peak to peak RF voltage reader. This circuit is described in Dave Benson's instructions for his SW+ series of radios. Better go download the manuals! Dave's closing shop in favor of retirement, and he won't leave the site up forever. When I built the circuit, I decided to put it on a board, and let it dangle off of my dummy load. That got annoying though, and there was always the problem of what to do with the dummy load when I was done measuring power. Evenually I just ripped the circuitboard off of the dummy load. Then I had a thought.
Since the circuit uses components that are QRP level, I decided to go with a QRPish dummyload. A long time ago I located some 2 watt 200 Ohm resistors. I used them to make a dummy load that would handle 8 watts. The circuit board once upon a time dangled from the dummyload like some sort of absurd dangily earring. It just makes more sense to put the dummy load on the circuitboard. This is the result shortly before hookup:
To insure that all my resistances were correct, and I could sanely measure voltages, I did a quickhookup to check out voltages, etc, before putting in an Altoids tin.
Once the little job was ready to permanently affix to the inside of an altoids tin, I located some two sided sticky stuff I had laying around, and attacted to the bottom of the altoids tin. I may have said "Oh Good Grief" or something like that when I realized that the board was a lil' bit crooked in relation to the bottom of the box. After hooking up a BNC connector, and attaching the wire to my test point, my RF voltage meter was ready to use.
That measures out to 0.9216 watts. ((Vp-p * sqrt(2)/4)^2 / 50) And then I got to thinking. I remembered that the last time I checked the RF output on this lil' tube radio was without my NoGAwatt attached! I pretty much just used just the dummy load dangling off the back of the radio. That was one of the reasons why I moved my dummyload onto the circuit board.
I took the NoGAWatt out of the equation and this is what I got:
For a whopping total of 1.092 watts! Just to make sure there wasn't anything crazy happening with thee coax I was using, I used both pieces of coax I used for the first test, and substituted a BNC female to female barrel coupler to see if adding that particular section of coax would alter the power out at all:
That confirmed my suspicion, The NoGAwatt was consuming power. Not surprising, since something has to make the needle move to indicate forward and reflected power. I bet I could calculate the maximum amount of power lost to the meter based on the full deflection reading of the needle...
ah, maybe later. Right now is time for operating!
I still have some prettying up to do on this lil-bit-o-kit, namely, I need to find some better way of hooking the RF measurement points up to make them accessable without being in the way, or easy to short out. Right now I'm just using the "situational awareness" method, and that doesn't always pan out.
Eventually, I hope to make this something that is publish worthy. We'll see how that works out.
73,
GB Hoyt
KG4GVL
Since the circuit uses components that are QRP level, I decided to go with a QRPish dummyload. A long time ago I located some 2 watt 200 Ohm resistors. I used them to make a dummy load that would handle 8 watts. The circuit board once upon a time dangled from the dummyload like some sort of absurd dangily earring. It just makes more sense to put the dummy load on the circuitboard. This is the result shortly before hookup:
 | |
| Dummyload Added! |
 |
| Ready To Test! |
 |
| Ready to Use! |
I plan on using this to test my designed Colpitts oscillator, but until then, the glowbug I have now will have to do. The first time I measured the voltage things seemed a little low.
 |
| This seems low. |
That measures out to 0.9216 watts. ((Vp-p * sqrt(2)/4)^2 / 50) And then I got to thinking. I remembered that the last time I checked the RF output on this lil' tube radio was without my NoGAwatt attached! I pretty much just used just the dummy load dangling off the back of the radio. That was one of the reasons why I moved my dummyload onto the circuit board.
I took the NoGAWatt out of the equation and this is what I got:
 |
| Much Better Now! |
 |
| Not Much! |
ah, maybe later. Right now is time for operating!
 |
| One last internal shot. |
Eventually, I hope to make this something that is publish worthy. We'll see how that works out.
GB Hoyt
KG4GVL
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hamstyle Recycle
Much of Amateur Radio relies on using, or reusing things in ways which the equipment designer didn't intend. I've seen rectifier diodes used as variable capacitors, small signal diodes used as voltage doublers, high speed switching transistors used as buffer amps, and oscillators. I've even used flourescent light bulbs to test for Radio Signals emminating from my antenna. That's where this piece of Vintage Junque comes into play:
I got this for free when visiting a fellow ham, and he said "It might work..." I plugged it in and PPPPBBBBXXXZZZZZZZZZZZZZZT! went some electrolytic capacitor in it.
Ok by me, it has tubes and sockets, and a power transformer inside! I decided to dismantle this stately relic from bygone days in between QSO's while hangin' out in "The Shack in the Back". If I can't bust the pile up, might as well bust up a pile of junk!
Once upon a time Heathkit was a company that "Made builders out of ordinary people" and I've got to admit, most of the time, I'm pretty ordinary. Looking inside the monitor, we see a plethora of old mil surplus parts. That is correct, one of the things that made Heathkit possible in the era of time in which it existed was the presence of a large and cheap supply of surplus parts.
Nothing like that exists today.
I suppose that's why Elecraft costs so much.
Inside this station monitor you find several interesting things, notice how big the carbon composition resistors are, and how they are %10 tolerance resistors. Don't find them in Radio shack these days! No sir! they have them fancy pants %5 parts. High tolerance that is.
Cleaned out the chassis some in this pic, let's take a closer look at the sockets I removed:
Once I'm done cleaning this thing out, it will be perferct to serve as a test bed for all sorts of MOPA's, VFO's, Regen RX's, or whatever I think to stick in it!
Let's just hope it survives the rain we will be getting over the next couple of days.
 |
| Heathkit, OOOOHHHHHHH |
Ok by me, it has tubes and sockets, and a power transformer inside! I decided to dismantle this stately relic from bygone days in between QSO's while hangin' out in "The Shack in the Back". If I can't bust the pile up, might as well bust up a pile of junk!
Once upon a time Heathkit was a company that "Made builders out of ordinary people" and I've got to admit, most of the time, I'm pretty ordinary. Looking inside the monitor, we see a plethora of old mil surplus parts. That is correct, one of the things that made Heathkit possible in the era of time in which it existed was the presence of a large and cheap supply of surplus parts.
Nothing like that exists today.
I suppose that's why Elecraft costs so much.
 |
| GUTS! |
 |
| Cleaned out some. |
 | |
| Socket to me! |
Let's just hope it survives the rain we will be getting over the next couple of days.
Thursday, May 30, 2013
More on the W3EDP
The original post I made on the W3EDP antenna I use for field use and as my main antenna is by far the most popular post I have made on this blog. I did some digging and it seems that every May since 2011 I tend to right some article about the W3EDP. I have covered how I make mine, and how I deploy it. Currently, it is the only antenna I have deployed on HF. Originally, I had intended to deploy it in a temporary fashion, but the antenna just seems to like being there. I've created a Picture of how the antenna looks as viewed from the side, sorry if my artistry leaves something to be desired.
Every now and then I tweak it a lil to make sure the wire isn't rubbing the bottom of a tree limb or something. Notes on this configuration: The antenna runs due east west. The east side is the far end, and the west side is where I feed the antenna. I seem to get a lot of contacts into Europe, and into the north east, especially on 40 and 20. Contacts to the west are iffy. I would like to put a similar antenna up that runs north south in pretty much the same configuration. It would be doable, but tricky. it's easy to install a Sloper North South, but not so easy to put up an antenna in a "Trapezoid" configuration as I have it installed. I may decide to go ahead and slope out the east west antenna, but we shall see.
I don't know if it's the water in the ground because of recent rains, or if it's that the trees are growing, but I notice that the tuning has been a bit touchy, and inconsistent. I seem to recall having to do very little tweaking all winter, when the tree may be green, but fairly dormant (no new growth, and little rain). Now I have to hunt for a sweet spot on the tuner a lil harder, and the knobs seem to be sharp tuning. I'll try to make and keep a chart for next years post, and publish the boring data :)
May update this post (or just make a new one) in a week or two if I decide to put up a North/South W3EDP. I also have to plan for the skeeter sprint, so tweakin' out my setup for that will consume my ham radio time.
73!
 |
| This antenna gets the QSOs |
Every now and then I tweak it a lil to make sure the wire isn't rubbing the bottom of a tree limb or something. Notes on this configuration: The antenna runs due east west. The east side is the far end, and the west side is where I feed the antenna. I seem to get a lot of contacts into Europe, and into the north east, especially on 40 and 20. Contacts to the west are iffy. I would like to put a similar antenna up that runs north south in pretty much the same configuration. It would be doable, but tricky. it's easy to install a Sloper North South, but not so easy to put up an antenna in a "Trapezoid" configuration as I have it installed. I may decide to go ahead and slope out the east west antenna, but we shall see.
I don't know if it's the water in the ground because of recent rains, or if it's that the trees are growing, but I notice that the tuning has been a bit touchy, and inconsistent. I seem to recall having to do very little tweaking all winter, when the tree may be green, but fairly dormant (no new growth, and little rain). Now I have to hunt for a sweet spot on the tuner a lil harder, and the knobs seem to be sharp tuning. I'll try to make and keep a chart for next years post, and publish the boring data :)
May update this post (or just make a new one) in a week or two if I decide to put up a North/South W3EDP. I also have to plan for the skeeter sprint, so tweakin' out my setup for that will consume my ham radio time.
73!
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
Heathkit + Ten-Tec = AWESOME?!?
... If Heathkit (Yes, they are back from the grave again!) could team with Ten-Tec's line of Rebel XCVRs to produce an expandable line of radios that combine kitbuilding, SDR, and programming?
Think K2, but simpler. Maybe start off with single band dc receiver. The next part of the kit could be an interface that allows you to hook in a computer. So now you've built the basis for an SDR receiver. Then you can add a TX board, and go on from there. By keeping it modular and open source, you can keep cost down. Plan it the right way, and you could even use it in a class to teach radio fundamentals, and licensing that goes beyond the usual "Memorize and regurgitate".
I think my ham radio generation of operators could really get into something like this. I'll take the Heathkit survey when I get home. I hope you will take it too.
UPDATE
Took the survey, while sitting in my radio shack, with an SW-40+ tuned to a QSO between W9ZN and AA4MC great CW ops those guys! remarkably clean fists.
Took the survey on my cellphone, something I don't think I could solder together myself (but I might be willing to try once!), in front of an old Swan MX100 and a partially disassembled Heathkit station monitor (HO-10). I told them I had two Heathkits. Sadly both are out of repair at the moment.
I hope they at least offer some spiffy green paint for sale!
Think K2, but simpler. Maybe start off with single band dc receiver. The next part of the kit could be an interface that allows you to hook in a computer. So now you've built the basis for an SDR receiver. Then you can add a TX board, and go on from there. By keeping it modular and open source, you can keep cost down. Plan it the right way, and you could even use it in a class to teach radio fundamentals, and licensing that goes beyond the usual "Memorize and regurgitate".
I think my ham radio generation of operators could really get into something like this. I'll take the Heathkit survey when I get home. I hope you will take it too.
UPDATE
Took the survey, while sitting in my radio shack, with an SW-40+ tuned to a QSO between W9ZN and AA4MC great CW ops those guys! remarkably clean fists.
Took the survey on my cellphone, something I don't think I could solder together myself (but I might be willing to try once!), in front of an old Swan MX100 and a partially disassembled Heathkit station monitor (HO-10). I told them I had two Heathkits. Sadly both are out of repair at the moment.
I hope they at least offer some spiffy green paint for sale!
Thursday, February 7, 2013
World's Ugliest Dummy Load Pt 1
In the last post I mentioned making a dummy load, and things not going quite as expected.
Things are turning out down right UGLY! LOL!
So far, it's going well, but when I got the leads prepped for adding a UHF connector, I found the Junque box fresh out! hmmm, I have plenty of BNC's but no UHF. Time for a trip to RadioSnack I guess.
I figured out what I'm doing wrong with this, and the solution. I tried adapting K4EAA's methodology, he uses a drilled brass plate to hold things together, I thought I was being slick using circuit boards. My problem came when I tried to line up the resistors to insert into the second board. Dadgum thing refused to go together!
I forgot this part in K4EAA's article:
My Daddy told me once that "Common sense isn't", and boy I relearn that lesson about every week, hi hi! In reality, I should have been listening to my inner voice that said "4 resistors on strips, like they come in bulk". I dismissed it as a dream, I don't have Dremel (generic or for real) so making strips out of PCB is tough. I tried cutting a double side PCB to make some paddles out of it, and it takes a LONG TIME with a hacksaw. I need to get a Dremel to finish that project. This morning I had my epiphany though. Being a QRP operator, I have an Altoids addiction. I claim I use them for the tins, but in reality, I just like munching the things down. As a result, I have a container that has nothing but Altoids tins in it.
Don't Judge, chances are you have one too.
:)
So at some point in time in the nearer than the further future, I will be modifying this project.
1. I want to remake the dummy load with 3 watt resistors instead of 2 watts. That way I will have have a 100+ watt DRY Dummy load. The nominal rating of this one is 88 watts (44 2 watt, 2.2KOhm resistors) I will probably order the resistors the same time I order some MV21's and binding posts to capture the Peak voltage of the circuit. If I decide that the cost is too high, I may just reclaim the resistors off of this board. I don't think it will be too hard to get them all apart (famous last words, hi hi)
2. I will make it using strips of 4 resistors each (11 strips total). Airflow will be better, and appearance will be better. Fun to be had by all.
OTHER NEWS:
N8VCL has become a Kitbuilder!
See his excellent adventures assembling a NS-40. Note the lack of any iron donut winding. That's kitbuilding HERESY! :) Check out the video of his kit in action. I hope he QRVs and QSOs with it soon.
Looks to be a neat kit, and N8VCL (Scott) certainly did a better job than I did the first time I tried to assemble anything. He's been added to to the ham radio bloglist on the right panel.
73!
Things are turning out down right UGLY! LOL!
 |
| Pretty Is as Pretty Does |
I figured out what I'm doing wrong with this, and the solution. I tried adapting K4EAA's methodology, he uses a drilled brass plate to hold things together, I thought I was being slick using circuit boards. My problem came when I tried to line up the resistors to insert into the second board. Dadgum thing refused to go together!
I forgot this part in K4EAA's article:
Note on easy assembly - Solder all 20 resistors to one plate, and then, starting at one corner, and working toward the opposite corner, cut the lead lengths starting from your minimum length, to progressively longer as you work towards the opposite corner. This will allow you to insert a few leads at a time as you combine the two plates. If they are all the same length, it will be very hard indeed to thread the 20 resistor leads into the bottom plate!
My Daddy told me once that "Common sense isn't", and boy I relearn that lesson about every week, hi hi! In reality, I should have been listening to my inner voice that said "4 resistors on strips, like they come in bulk". I dismissed it as a dream, I don't have Dremel (generic or for real) so making strips out of PCB is tough. I tried cutting a double side PCB to make some paddles out of it, and it takes a LONG TIME with a hacksaw. I need to get a Dremel to finish that project. This morning I had my epiphany though. Being a QRP operator, I have an Altoids addiction. I claim I use them for the tins, but in reality, I just like munching the things down. As a result, I have a container that has nothing but Altoids tins in it.
Don't Judge, chances are you have one too.
:)
So at some point in time in the nearer than the further future, I will be modifying this project.
1. I want to remake the dummy load with 3 watt resistors instead of 2 watts. That way I will have have a 100+ watt DRY Dummy load. The nominal rating of this one is 88 watts (44 2 watt, 2.2KOhm resistors) I will probably order the resistors the same time I order some MV21's and binding posts to capture the Peak voltage of the circuit. If I decide that the cost is too high, I may just reclaim the resistors off of this board. I don't think it will be too hard to get them all apart (famous last words, hi hi)
2. I will make it using strips of 4 resistors each (11 strips total). Airflow will be better, and appearance will be better. Fun to be had by all.
OTHER NEWS:
N8VCL has become a Kitbuilder!
See his excellent adventures assembling a NS-40. Note the lack of any iron donut winding. That's kitbuilding HERESY! :) Check out the video of his kit in action. I hope he QRVs and QSOs with it soon.
Looks to be a neat kit, and N8VCL (Scott) certainly did a better job than I did the first time I tried to assemble anything. He's been added to to the ham radio bloglist on the right panel.
73!
Friday, October 5, 2012
Project Clean Up Part 1 Chapter 8
Chapter 8: "Walking in the Hollow State"
This is a continuation, the First part is Here, a complete list is available under "Ham Radio Master links" on the sidebar.
Getting the power supply working, putting out good, well filtered voltage was relatively easy. The hard work was getting the radio itself QRV once again.
That's right, more problems.
Seeing that I was trying something crazy, like switching tubes, I decided that I would revert to the original two tubes, in their original sockets. Why tempt the smoke? It needed to stay in the caps this time, or money would be spent!
I put the two tubes in, confident in the knowledge that I have made QSOs with these tubes, tuned the Swan 100-MX to 3579ish, tuned the antenna on that frequency, switched antenna outlets, keyed down, and heard noise! Victory? Not quite.
So I tried peaking the tank cap, no dice, then went investigating the tube sockets themselves again because I stopped getting any signal out when I jiggled the connection. I didn't notice anything immediately obvious, but Warmed some joints anyway, and made sure nothing was shorting anything out.
Then....
I packed up shop for the night, scowling at my fortunes.
No power, no nothing, just time for bed.
Suddenly, I had an idea!
What if one of the tubes was bad? Like the one that was still on the chassis when I smoked the radio the first time? Couldn't hurt to try right?
Sho' nuff, soon as I switched tubes and gave it a minute to warm up, bam! power out. Then I went to bed.
Time for the Finishing touches
I decided to button up the power supply. I clipped the primary to secondary connection to shorten the wires. The plan here was to mount the capacitors and surge resistor in the middle and the rectifier more or less on top of the secondary transformer.
More or less that's how it went.
Getting that bugger in there was tough! I had to cajole, caress, tweak and twitch over the course of two nites, but sure enough, it happened, and I was able to get that sucker in there!
Now it's time for a QSO!
That corresponds to ONE BLAZING WATT of RF on a dummy load.
On to the next project!
73,
DE KG4GVL TT-80 QRT
Thank you all for reading!
ps,
I will occasionally post followup articles to this series, and will keep a list of all the states I've worked and confirmed. My goal for this rig will be WAS or something. Look for me round about 3579KHz, in between all the digi stuff...
This is a continuation, the First part is Here, a complete list is available under "Ham Radio Master links" on the sidebar.
Getting the power supply working, putting out good, well filtered voltage was relatively easy. The hard work was getting the radio itself QRV once again.
That's right, more problems.
Seeing that I was trying something crazy, like switching tubes, I decided that I would revert to the original two tubes, in their original sockets. Why tempt the smoke? It needed to stay in the caps this time, or money would be spent!
I put the two tubes in, confident in the knowledge that I have made QSOs with these tubes, tuned the Swan 100-MX to 3579ish, tuned the antenna on that frequency, switched antenna outlets, keyed down, and heard noise! Victory? Not quite.
Then....
I packed up shop for the night, scowling at my fortunes.
No power, no nothing, just time for bed.
Suddenly, I had an idea!
What if one of the tubes was bad? Like the one that was still on the chassis when I smoked the radio the first time? Couldn't hurt to try right?
Sho' nuff, soon as I switched tubes and gave it a minute to warm up, bam! power out. Then I went to bed.
Time for the Finishing touches
I decided to button up the power supply. I clipped the primary to secondary connection to shorten the wires. The plan here was to mount the capacitors and surge resistor in the middle and the rectifier more or less on top of the secondary transformer.More or less that's how it went.
Getting that bugger in there was tough! I had to cajole, caress, tweak and twitch over the course of two nites, but sure enough, it happened, and I was able to get that sucker in there!
Now it's time for a QSO!
On to the next project!
73,
DE KG4GVL TT-80 QRT
Thank you all for reading!
ps,
I will occasionally post followup articles to this series, and will keep a list of all the states I've worked and confirmed. My goal for this rig will be WAS or something. Look for me round about 3579KHz, in between all the digi stuff...
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